With our two boys in tow, we set off on a self-driving safari, camping under the stars and exploring some of the world’s most iconic national parks. Our 51-Day Camping Safari is easy to break down into smaller itineraries. Starting in Cape Town, we travelled up the coast of South Africa and Namibia, inland to Zambia and down through Botswana before finishing in Johannesburg.
The 17 days we spent in Botswana were full of wild and unforgettable adventures.
Home to the famous Okavango Delta and Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, Botswana offers an incredibly diverse ecosystem experience. For animal lovers, Chobe National Park is one of the best places for wildlife viewing.
Along our journey, we ran into a local who said, “When camping in South Africa and Namibia, you camp next to animals, while in Botswana, you camp among them.” This was exactly our experience.
Botswana‘s National Parks have intentionally remained rural. This allows for some of Africa’s best viewing opportunities because the animals roam free. As such, there is always the possibility of animals wandering into the campgrounds to join you. We saw many animals in and around our campsite and even more pawprints when we climbed down from our tents in the mornings.
In addition, Botswana is far more expensive than South Africa and Namibia. The people of Botswana value their resources and want to preserve them for years to come. The higher prices limit the number of tourists, decreasing the impact of human-wildlife contact and preventing crowds from destroying the habitats.
Our detailed itinerary will give you ideas for your trip and make it easier for you to experience the beauty and wildlife Botswana has to offer.
Day 1: Kazungula Border Crossing to Kasane, Botswana
Excited about everything Botswana had to offer, we crossed the border and headed to Kasane, a bustling town near the border. After grabbing some supplies, we made our way to Chobe Safari Lodge, just minutes from Chobe National Park.
Learn More: Navigating Boarder Crossings in Southern Africa
The main attraction of the campsite was the Lodge, located only a short walk from the camping area. Perched on the edge of the Zambezi River, the Lodge features an open-air restaurant and patio, along with a large pool and lounge chairs perfect for a relaxing afternoon while soaking in the views.
Driving Time: 20 minutes (not including border time)
Roads: Paved highway.
Supplies: Chobe Safari Lodge is located off the main road in Kasane. Several grocery stores were located between the border and the campground to stop for supplies.
Campground: Chobe Safari Lodge
The campsites at the Chobe Safari Lodge were small and packed closely together, with limited privacy. There was no water on-site, but communal sinks were available for cooking water and dishwashing. Each site was equipped with power and lights, with electric plugs available for charging devices. Wi-Fi was accessible at reception. Chobe National Park is just a few minutes away, and the Lodge offered a variety of wildlife experiences, including land, boat, and helicopter tours. Self-drive, guided, and private safari options were available.
Day 2: Chobe River Front (Kasane)
We spent the day poolside at Chobe Safari Lodge, then booked the most popular tour—the sunset cruise along the Chobe River. The water-based safari offered incredible opportunities for close-up encounters with hippos, crocodiles, and waterfowl. If you’re lucky, you might even spot playful elephants taking a bath.
Learn More: Sunset Cruise on the Chobe River – A Photo Journey
Day 3 & 4: Linyanti, Chobe National Park
Our drive to Linyanti marked our first venture off the main roads in Botswana. Many travellers we’d met over the past couple of weeks had already journeyed through Botswana, and the consensus was clear—while Botswana offers spectacular game viewing, it is rugged, wild, and challenging to navigate. We certainly found this to be true.
With a woodland landscape, Linyanti features lush floodplains and lagoons. It’s home to a large concentration of lions, leopards, and wild dogs. The area is also famous for its massive elephant population, which migrates along the Linyanti River during the dry season.
The campsites in Linyanti overlook the vast marshlands where elephants frequently visit to graze and cool off. For the best wildlife sightings, pull up a camping chair and wait for the animals to come to you.
Learn More: Camping in Chobe NP & Moremi Game Reserve
Driving Time: 5 hours from Kasane to Linyanti, Chobe National Park.
Roads: The roads alternated between deep, soft sand and narrow, heavy bush areas, requiring decreased tire pressure for the sand and 4×4.
Supplies: Stock up in Kasane before heading to Linyanti, as there are no grocery stores within Chobe National Park.
Campground: Linyanti Campground
The sites at Linyanti were large and private, surrounded by trees, with views over the floodplains. It felt like we were the only campers there. Water was available on-site, but there was no power. The ablution facilities were clean, although hot water for showers was inconsistent—there was no hot water during our three-day stay. There was no Wi-Fi, restaurant, lodge facilities, or guided game drive.
Safety Tip: Baboons are common in the area. When you leave camp, ensure you put your tent down and leave nothing outside. Lions are known to enter the campground at night—we saw many paw prints around our truck in the morning. Avoid walking to the ablution stations after dark. Elephants roam the camp at all hours—some can be aggressive, as poaching is still a concern in this area.
Day 5 & 6: Savuti, Chobe National Park
Today was Derek’s 40th birthday, and Chobe National Park didn’t disappoint! Shortly after breakfast, the elephants returned for our viewing pleasure. We spent some time watching them before heading out on our drive to Savuti.
The Savuti area is vast, with various terrains, from forested areas to open grassy savannahs with waterholes. Several trails take you close enough to observe and photograph the game. Over the two days, we saw cape buffalo, giraffes, and wildebeests and were treated to an incredible leopard sighting.
For more information on our experiences in Chobe National Park, check out our post, Into the Wild: Chobe NP with Kids
Back at the campsite, a mishap led to an unforgettable evening. While cooking dinner over the fire pit, Derek burned himself. His painful screams alerted a neighbouring camper, who came over to check on us. While chatting, we shared that it was Derek’s birthday. No sooner had we finished dinner than our neighbour returned with his friend and a bottle of champagne. We spent the rest of the evening enjoying the bubbly and swapping safari stories. They shared an amazing recent sighting of a pride of lions taking down an elephant on their way to Khwai, our next destination.
Driving Time: 2 hours and 30 minutes from Linyanti to Savuti (with stops for game viewing).
Roads: Moderate to deep soft sand with compact areas. Reduced tire pressure for the sand, and a 4×4 was required.
Campground: Savuti Campground
The Savuti campsites were large and shaded by trees but close together, with limited privacy. Water was available on-site, but there was no power. The deep sand on the sites made setting up our tent ladder tricky, and it felt like we were camping on a beach. The ablution facilities were clean, with multiple showers and toilets. Hot water was available, though intermittent. Laundry services and wash sinks were available for self-laundry. A restaurant and lodges were on-site, and Wi-Fi was available at reception.
Safety Tip: Unlike in Namibia, Botswana’s campsites are open, meaning animals roam freely. If your campsite is far from the ablution station, avoid walking at night, due to the possibility of game, including large cats, nearby. One evening, around dinner when the campground was still lively, Derek and Mason spotted a leopard crouching in the bushes about 15 meters away, while walking to the bathroom. We later learned that the same leopard had passed through a neighbouring campsite just moments earlier.
Day 7: Savuti to Khwai, Moremi Game Reserve
With directions from our neighbours to the lion kill, we set off to Khwai. Little did we know the adventure we were in for. What was supposed to be a 5-hour drive from Chobe to Moremi Game Reserve turned into an 11-hour journey filled with both excitement and danger. It was a day we would describe as the best and worst of our safari experience, all wrapped up in one.
Learn More: Our Best and Worst Day on Safari
Driving Time: 5 hours according to GPS, but allow extra time for game viewing.
Road Tip: When leaving Chobe NP, take the Marsh Road instead of the Main Road. The Main Road is known for its deep sand and is challenging to navigate, with fewer opportunities for game sightings. The Marsh Road is a mix of compact dirt and moderate soft sand; 4×4 is required in certain areas.
Campground: Khwai Campground
The Khwai campsites, like those at Linyanti and Savuti, are part of the same chain (SLK), though Khwai is in a different park. The campsites were well-spaced, shaded with trees, and offered plenty of privacy. Water was available onsite, but there was no power. The ablution facilities were clean, with multiple showers and toilets. Hot water was available intermittently. No lodges or restaurants, and no Wi-Fi, or guided game drives available.
Safety Tips: Be cautious of curious monkeys that will surround the campsites when food is out and will attempt to steal anything they can. Driving to the ablution stations after dark was recommended, no matter how close your campsite is to the facility, as lions prowl the campground at night. We did not see any lions; however, one night, just as we were about to get out of the truck to get ready for bed, we turned on the headlights to find a large spotted hyena lurking in front of us. It quickly vanished into the brush when the lights came on.
Day 8: Khwai, Moremi Game Reserve
Moremi Game Reserve offers the chance to see some of Botswana’s most endangered species, including wild dogs and both white and black rhinos. Located south of Chobe National Park and within the Okavango Delta, Moremi’s beautifully diverse landscape features grasslands, forests, floodplains, and lagoons. Unlike national parks, Moremi is designated as a game reserve and is home to the BaSarwa people.
One of our favourite spots in the reserve was Hippo Pond, located near the Khwai campground. This large pond, which resembled a small lake, sat in the middle of expansive grasslands. From the lookout structure, you can see dozens of hippos bobbing up and down in the water, showing off their little ears and large snouts.
Day 9: Khwai to Mankwe Bush Camp (Just outside of Moremi Game Reserve)
Mankwe Bush Camp is where luxury cabins and basic campsites meet, offering the best of both worlds. Upon arriving at the reception, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped into an oasis. Rustic wooden bridges guide you through the resort, leading to two pool decks with padded lounge chairs, personal towels, covered sitting areas, bars, a restaurant, and a reading room. A small watering hole next to one of the pools provided an opportunity to watch wildlife while lounging in the sun.
But, just a five-minute drive down the road, you’re in complete wilderness, with only basic camping amenities. The campsites are widely spaced, creating a sense of solitude and immersion in nature.
After setting up camp, we decided to take a break by the pool. The drive here had been stressful, with blocked roads and unreliable GPS directions, which led to Derek chopping down a small bush in the forest to clear the way.
Driving Time: 2 hours and 30 minutes
Roads: The main road outside Moremi was a mix of compact dirt, large potholes, and deep, soft sand. As we approached Mankwe Bush Camp, the terrain changed to narrow paths and uneven, forested areas. 4×4 was necessary in some sections.
Campground: Mankwe Bush Camp
The Mankwe Bush camping area is situated in the middle of a grassy savannah. Each site had a private tented ablution facility with a bag system shower. To use it, you boil water and mix it with cold water to achieve the desired temperature, then open a lever to allow the water to flow. Fresh water isn’t available on-site—only saltwater—so you must bring your own drinking and cooking water. There is no power, but the reception offers a restaurant and Wi-Fi. The resort is not inside Moremi Game Reserve, so there are no additional park fees.
Day 10: Camp Day Mankwe Resort
We woke up to strong winds, reminiscent of the fierce gusts we encountered at Okonjima Reserve. When that happened in Namibia, all the animals hid in the thick brush to avoid the wind. So, rather than heading out on a game drive, we opted to relax by the pool for the day.
However, luck was on our side when, returning to our campsite in the evening, we saw a leopard swiftly crossing the road before us. Unfortunately, it was too quick for us to capture on camera, but the thrill of seeing it was exhilarating.
Day 11: Mankwe Resort to Maun
After spending eight days deep in the bush, we finally made our way to Maun, a larger city. The afternoon was spent stocking up on supplies and running errands. The Crocodile Camp offered all the amenities we were craving. The boys enjoyed swimming in the pool while I visited the gym. That evening, we treated ourselves to pizza and ice cream at the on-site restaurant.
Driving Time: 2 hours and 30 minutes
Roads: Compact dirt roads with sections of deep potholes for most of the route; the last 30km was paved.
Campground: Crocodile Camp
Crocodile Camp is a great option for those seeking creature comforts during their safari. With lodges, a restaurant, two bars, a pool, a spa, and a gym, it was a perfect place to unwind and rejuvenate for a few days. The pool, bar, and restaurant area overlooked a small river where you could watch cows leisurely graze.
Each campsite had private shower and toilet facilities, a covered patio with a washing sink, deep laundry sinks, and a clothesline. While the campsites were very close together, offering little privacy, the amenities made up for it. Water and power were available on-site, with hot water on demand. Wi-Fi reached the campsite. Campers can use all the services, including the restaurant, spa, and gym.
Day 12: Camp Day at Crocodile Camp
Even on safari, we had a few days that felt like home. Derek and I started the morning with a visit to the gym, followed by some laundry, and then enjoyed a hot cup of tea over breakfast. The afternoon was productive—while the boys caught up on schoolwork and had fun in the pool, Derek and I focused on getting some work done. After dinner, Mason and I made Rice Krispies treats and ended the evening by calling our families back home.
Day 13: Nxai Pan National Park – Baines Baobab
Nxai Pan National Park, located southeast of Chobe National Park and Moremi Game Reserve, was one of our most stunning areas. The Makgadikgadi Pans are a vast collection of salt flats rivalled only by Bolivia‘s famous Uyuni Salt Flats. With ancient Baines Baobab trees and incredible landscapes, Nxai Pan National Park will surely create lasting memories.
Learn More: Living Giants: A Photo Journey Through Nxai Pan National Park
Driving Time: 3 hours from Maun to Nxai Pan Baines Baobab
Roads: Paved roads out of Maun, then compact dirt roads full of potholes and uneven terrain.
Supplies: Be sure to stock up in Maun before entering Nxai Pan National Park. There are no supplies available within the park.
Campground: Nxai Pan Baines Baobab
Nxai Pan Baines Baobab Campground was one of the most beautiful campsites we stayed at. However, it was basic and equipped with an outhouse, an outdoor bucket shower, and a single fire pit. There was no power, lights, running water, garbage pick-up, or Wi-Fi.
Day 14: Nxai Pan National Park – South Gate
The South Gate entrance to Nxai Pan National Park offers a remarkable wildlife experience and is known for its active waterholes, attracting a wide variety of species throughout the year, including large herds of elephants, giraffes and, if you’re lucky, lions.
Driving Time: 2 hours.
Roads: Compact dirt roads full of potholes and uneven terrain.
Campground: South Gate
This campground had limited privacy and no power, lights, or running water. However, there are nearby ablution facilities with toilets, hot water for showers, and large sinks for dishes. There was no Wi-Fi. The upside of staying at South Gate was the animal sightings. When we arrived, we were greeted by three elephants grazing next to the ablution facility. We spent over an hour watching them before one casually wandered through our campsite to another grassy area.
Day 15: South Gate Nxai Pan National Park to Elephant Sands Campground
Elephant Sands is famous for its incredible waterhole, which is located next to the campground. Throughout the day and night, families of elephants trudge back and forth to drink and cool off. If you’re fortunate enough to snag one of the campsites up front, you can set up your camp chairs and enjoy the show without moving.
Driving Time: 4 hours and 30 minutes
Roads: Deep sand and compact dirt roads full of potholes and uneven terrain until we left Nxai Pan National Park, then paved road for the rest. 4×4 was required in the park.
Campground: Elephant Sands.
The campground at Elephant Sands was a large grassy field without clearly defined boundaries between campsites. It operated on a first-come, first-served basis. As a result, people often competed for the five campsites closest to the waterhole and squeezed into tight spaces to secure the best views. Don’t worry if you don’t get a prime spot. The restaurant area has an incredible viewing platform where you can still enjoy the wildlife sightings. The campsites had no water, power, or lights, and the ablution facilities were shared. Wi-Fi was available in the reception/restaurant area.
Day 16: Camp Day at Elephant Sands
We had another birthday celebration today, with Mason turning 9 years old. We spent the day watching dozens of these beautiful giants make their way to and from the watering hole, leisurely sipping as they mingled and socialized with each other. In between sightings, we played board games, pet the owner’s mongooses, and indulged in some birthday cake.
Day 17: Elephant Sands to Limpopo River Lodge
We set off early this morning for the long drive to Limpopo River Lodge. The highlight of the day was a surprise sighting of wild dogs just outside the Elephant Sands campground. A small group was walking near the road, reminding us to always be on the lookout for wildlife.
Driving Time: 7 hours and 30 minutes
Roads: Excellent road conditions for most of the drive, with two-lane paved highways and guardrails. The last 30km was off-road with large potholes and rough, uneven terrain. This portion took one hour to drive.
Campground: Limpopo River Lodge.
Limpopo River Lodge was a surprise, leaving us wishing we had more time to enjoy this serene campground. Large green trees provided ample shade and privacy, and the sound of the rushing river made for peaceful nights. Private bathrooms and showers with hot water were available nearby, and the river provided water for washing and cooking. Wi-Fi was intermittent at the campsite.
Safety Tip: Be cautious at night and early morning as hippos come out of the water to graze.
This marks the end of our unforgettable camping safari in Southern Africa. Tomorrow we will cross the border into South Africa and make our way to Johannesburg Airport.
As we wrapped up our journey, one thing was clear: the memories we made will last a lifetime, and we wouldn’t trade a single moment. Our time in the wilds of Africa—camping under the stars, encountering wildlife up close, and embracing the challenge of the road—left a permanent mark on our hearts.
Ready to Start Planning Your Safari Adventure?
Check out these related posts to help plan your trip:
- 51-Day Africa Safari – Part 1: South Africa & Namibia’s Coast
- 51-Day Africa Safari – Part 2: Namibia’s Etosha & Caprivi Strip
- 51-Day Africa Safari – Part 3: Victoria Falls & Botswana
- Our Best and Worst Day on Safari
- Camping Safari in Africa: Know Before You Go
- Camping Across Southern Africa: A Rundown of our Safari Campsites
- Navigating Border Crossings in Southern Africa
- Safari with Kids: Tips from the Road
- Etosha NP with Kids: A Family Safari to Remember
- Exploring the Caprivi Strip with Kids
- Okonjima Family Safari: Where the Wild Things Wait
- The Smoke that Thunders: A Trip to Victoria Falls
- Into the Wild: Chobe NP with Kids
- Sunset Cruise on the Chobe River: A Photo Journey
- Living Giants: A Photo Journey Through Nxai Pan National Park
