Few places we visited in Italy left an impression on us quite like Pompeii. Walking through the remarkably preserved streets, homes, and public buildings felt less like visiting an archaeological site and more like stepping directly into the ancient world. Combined with a hike up Mount Vesuvius — the volcano responsible for the city’s destruction — this ended up being one of the most fascinating and thought-provoking experiences of our trip.
We based ourselves in nearby Naples for two nights, spending one day exploring Pompeii and the next climbing Mount Vesuvius.
History of Pompeii
Before its destruction, Pompeii was a thriving and wealthy Roman city. Home to approximately 20,000 people, including thousands of slaves, it was an important port city known for exporting wine and olive oil. Pompeii was considered a bustling metropolis where wealthy citizens could purchase luxury goods from across the Roman Empire, including exotic items like Indian silk.
Then, in 79 AD, Mount Vesuvius erupted.
Unlike the lava flows many people imagine, the eruption consisted primarily of volcanic ash, toxic gases, and pyroclastic flows that buried the city over three days. Most victims died from asphyxiation caused by the ash and gases.
The eruption dramatically transformed the landscape. Ash buried Pompeii beneath nearly 12 metres of debris, covered the nearby river, and even pushed the coastline outward by approximately one kilometre. The once-coastal city disappeared entirely.
Today, roughly two-thirds of Pompeii has been excavated, while large portions still remain buried beneath volcanic ash. Modern archaeological efforts focus heavily on preserving the exposed ruins rather than uncovering new sections, as excavation is both costly and potentially destabilizing to the site.
Visiting Pompeii
Entering Pompeii feels like stepping into a time capsule. Unlike many archaeological sites where you see scattered ruins and must imagine the rest, Pompeii still feels like a city. The streets remain intact. Buildings line the roads. Amphitheatres, villas, and shops still stand thousands of years later.
Walking through Pompeii felt both fascinating and eerie. In many ways, you are exploring both an ancient city and a cemetery.
Our boys were completely captivated by the stories of daily Roman life, the scale of the ruins, and the overwhelming power of the volcano that destroyed it all.
Interesting Facts About Pompeii:
The streets were designed with a slope toward the river to allow rainwater to drain away. During heavy rainfall, pedestrians crossed using raised stepping stones placed across the roads while chariots passed through the gaps between them. You can still see the deep grooves worn into the stone by ancient wagon wheels.
Most buildings originally had second floors, but the wooden roofs and upper levels were destroyed during the eruption. A few structures have had their roofs reconstructed to help visitors imagine what Pompeii once looked like.
The streets were lined with a mix of homes, shops, and food stalls. Our guide joked that Pompeii’s “fast food” counters were the ancient Roman version of McDonald’s because they seemed to appear on every street corner.
Nearly every villa contained a garden courtyard. Archaeologists studied the DNA of plant roots uncovered in the ash and recreated many of the gardens using the same plant species that existed nearly 2,000 years ago.
During excavations, archaeologists discovered hollow spaces within the hardened ash where victims’ bodies had decomposed over time. By filling these cavities with plaster and carefully removing the surrounding ash, they created haunting casts showing the exact positions people were in when they died. Seeing the casts, especially those of children and infants, was one of the most emotional parts of the visit.
Visiting Pompeii with Kids
Pompeii ended up being one of the most engaging historical sites we visited with our kids. The open-air layout allowed them to freely explore the streets, homes, and ruins while imagining what life would have looked like nearly 2,000 years ago.
That said, parents should be aware that some areas display plaster casts of victims who died during the eruption. While our boys found the history fascinating rather than frightening, younger or more sensitive children may find these displays upsetting.
Tips for Visiting Pompeii
Consider a Guided Tour: There are so many stories about daily life in Pompeii and the aftermath of the eruption that having a knowledgeable guide truly brings the city to life. We used LivTours and were impressed by both the guide’s knowledge and their ability to engage the kids throughout the tour.
Give Yourself Plenty of Time: We spent approximately four hours exploring Pompeii — half with a guide and half on our own — and still felt like we barely scratched the surface. Depending on your interest level, you could easily spend an entire day exploring the ruins.
Encourage Your Kids to Explore: Pompeii feels like an enormous open-air museum. Let your kids wander through the streets, peek into buildings, and stop at the ruins or artifacts that catch their attention.
Climbing Mount Vesuvius
After spending a full day walking through Pompeii, we wanted to see the volcano that destroyed it up close.
Mount Vesuvius
Mount Vesuvius is a stratovolcano, a type of volcano known for producing far more explosive eruptions than typical lava-flow volcanoes. Because the summit becomes capped over time, pressure and gases build beneath the surface until the volcano eventually erupts violently. The eruption in 79 AD, which destroyed Pompeii and nearby towns, is estimated to have released energy equivalent to several atomic bombs. Although Vesuvius remains an active volcano, its last eruption occurred in 1944 and was relatively minor compared to the catastrophic explosion that buried Pompeii.
Today, the volcano appears surprisingly peaceful. There’s no rumbling or rising steam. The crater is mostly covered in grass and scattered vegetation. From the summit, it’s hard to imagine the devastation this mountain once caused below.
Hiking Mount Vesuvius
Mount Vesuvius is open to visitors, and you can either hike or take a shuttle partway to the summit.
Parking: You can drive partway up the volcano and park near the trailhead. Parking tickets must be purchased online in advance.
Shuttle or Walk: From the parking area, visitors can either walk approximately 2 km uphill or take a shuttle bus closer to the summit.
Tickets: The ticket booth is located near the summit entrance. From there, it’s roughly another kilometre walk to the crater itself.
The Crater: Visitors can walk along portions of the crater rim, taking in views of the volcano and surrounding cities from different angles. The sweeping views over Naples, Pompeii, and the Bay of Naples stretch into the distance, making the hike worthwhile.
What to Wear: You don’t need hiking boots for this trail — runners are perfectly fine — but temperatures at the summit can be surprisingly cool and windy, so layers are recommended.
Herculaneum
The nearby town of Herculaneum was also destroyed during the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, although unlike Pompeii, it was buried by superheated mudflows rather than ash.
We had planned to visit Herculaneum after hiking Mount Vesuvius, but unfortunately missed the note on the website explaining that the archaeological site is closed on Wednesdays. If you have time, Herculaneum could be a great addition to your itinerary.
Why Pompeii Is Worth Visiting
Whether it’s the haunting stories, the remarkably preserved ruins, or the opportunity to stand atop the volcano responsible for it all, Pompeii is unlike any historical site we’ve visited and brings history to life in a truly unforgettable way.
Even long after leaving Italy, we still found ourselves reflecting on the city, imagining what life must have looked like before the eruption and how quickly everything changed.
Ready to Explore Italy?
Check out these related posts to help plan your trip:
• Fun Things to Do in Venice with Kids
• Becoming Gondoliers: Learning to Row a Gondola in Venice
• Inside the Colosseum: Touring Ancient Rome with Kids
• The Vatican with Kids: What to Expect & How to Plan
• Roaming Around Rome: A Walking Tour for Families
