The Smoke That Thunders – A Trip to Victoria Falls

Posted by

Kimberly Thornton

April 16, 2025

It’s no surprise that people flock to Livingstone, Zambia, to see Victoria Falls. Known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya — “The Smoke That Thunders” — this natural wonder on the Zambezi River is one of the largest waterfalls in the world, both in width and volume. The roar is deafening, the spray is relentless, and the beauty is unforgettable.

Victoria Falls straddles the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe, and both sides offer awe-inspiring views. We chose to explore from the Zambian side, where a cobblestone path leads you from the buzz of Livingstone town into a mist-covered rainforest. As you walk deeper into the jungle, the sound of rushing water builds until you finally reach a clearing, and your first jaw-dropping glimpse of the Falls.

A Return Worth Repeating

Victoria Falls was the only destination on our 51-Day Camping Safari through Southern Africa that we had visited before. Derek and I came here in 2007, but sharing it now with our boys made it feel brand new.

2007 Safari

2022 Safari

Back then, we visited in January during the early rainy season, when the water levels were just starting to rise. On this trip, we arrived in June, near peak flow, and the difference was staggering. The sheer volume of water, the crashing sound, the constant spray… It felt like we were witnessing a completely different place. It’s extraordinary the difference a few months can make.

January 2007

June 2022

Embracing the Mist

And that mist? It’s no exaggeration. One minute you’re in full sun, the next you’re caught in a downpour, soaked to your socks and underwear in seconds. Crossing the footbridge felt like walking through a cloudburst. But getting drenched is all part of the fun. We embraced it, laughing and running through the mist like kids in a sprinkler.

Tip: Rain ponchos are available at the entrance, but even with one, you’ll still get wet. Make sure your camera gear is well-protected with a waterproof cover or dry bag.

Taking Our Time

We loved having the time to explore at our own pace — unlike our first trip, when we only had an hour with a guided tour. This time, we meandered through the various trails and lookout points, letting the boys lead the way. Each turn offered a new perspective and a chance to soak it all in (literally).

Hike to the Boiling Pot

For a different view, don’t miss the Boiling Pot Hike. It’s a moderately steep trail that winds down stone steps and dirt roads to the riverbed below the Falls. The swirling currents here churn into whirlpools that give the Boiling Pot its name. From the bottom, you also get a striking view of the Victoria Falls Bridge spanning the gorge.

Tip: Wear proper footwear. The hike down is relatively short (about 15 minutes), but the climb back up is no joke. Sandals would be challenging on the slick rocks and steep steps.

Monkey Business

We also had a few close encounters with the locals — baboons. Dozens of them swung through the trees, lounged along the trail, and leaped across railings as we made our way to the riverbed. The boys loved watching them up close, but we had to be cautious.

Tip: Do not enter the park with food, and keep your car windows closed in the parking area. The baboons here are bold and know exactly what they’re looking for.

Worth the Soak

Victoria Falls was the only repeat stop on our two-month itinerary, and we’re so glad we made the return. Experiencing the Falls through the eyes of our kids, with time to explore every trail and viewpoint, made it one of the most memorable parts of our journey. So yes, you’ll get wet. But trust us, it’s worth every soggy sock.

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