Rurrenabaque is the main gateway to Bolivia’s Amazon basin, and just getting there turned into a few of our most memorable (and dramatic) travel days. Our family spent five days exploring two distinct areas of the Amazon: two days in the wildlife-rich pampas (the grassy lowlands) and three days deep in the jungle of Madidi National Park.
Travelling to Bolivia’s Amazon isn’t just a journey—it’s part of the adventure, and it was one that began well before we saw a single monkey or macaw.
Getting to Rurrenabaque
It just so happened to be Derek’s birthday, and unfortunately for him, travel mishaps seem to follow his special day—last year it was Botswana, this year Bolivia.
Read about our travel mishap in Botswana: Our Best and Worst Day on Safari
Things started off smoothly until we actually boarded the plane.
EcoJet, a budget airline known for maintenance cancellations, is the only airline that flies to Rurrenabaque. I should probably mention that I have a fear of flying. Every time I get on a plane, a part of me wonders if this might be my last day. Then I feel the wheels hit the runway and I quietly celebrate that we’re still alive.
So, already uneasy about this journey, we settled into our seats. But just as we were about to depart, the captain came over the intercom to inform us of a maintenance issue. We’d have to disembark.
As we shuffled back to the lounge, nerves started to rise. Jackson’s also a nervous flyer. Add to that the fact that the plane was so old it still had ashtrays in the armrests; this maintenance delay was far from reassuring.
An hour later, wrapped in jackets against the high-altitude chill of La Paz, we walked back across the tarmac and boarded the same plane. Again, we settled in. Again, the doors closed. And again, the captain came on to say the issue STILL wasn’t resolved. Off we went—our uneasiness growing, and our confidence in the airline slipping.
With a good chance our flight might be cancelled, we started to worry. There are only three flights a week to Rurrenabaque. Ours was on Friday. If it got cancelled, the next option was Monday, which meant missing our Amazon tour entirely.
Tensions ran high as we contacted Nick from Nick’s Adventures Bolivia (our tour provider). He was fantastic, exploring backup options like a public bus (16–20 hours on one of Bolivia’s most dangerous roads) or a private taxi (8–10 hours). Neither sounded appealing.
At 11:30 a.m., just when we were about to give up hope, they called us to board a third time—and this time, with white-knuckled grips on those old armrests, we took off.
Flying out of La Paz is a strange experience. The air is so thin at this altitude that the plane needs a much longer runway to get airborne. Once in the air, the climb is shallow and slow. It felt less like we were being propelled forward and more like we were being lifted from underneath. For a moment, I genuinely worried we wouldn’t gain altitude fast enough to clear the Andes. Even Derek, who usually loves flying, looked uneasy during takeoff.
The flight lasted just 40 minutes, which was more than enough for me.
Arriving in Rurrenabaque
Stepping off the plane felt like entering another world. The airport was a single shed beside a landing strip, with a new terminal under construction. We stepped off the plane, then walked across a parking lot to gather our luggage from a cart that had been wheeled over by tractors.
The Road to the Pampas
The next leg was a 3-hour drive to the pampas. Our guide met us at the airport and drove us straight into the Amazon lowlands, a vast expanse of grassy wetlands teeming with wildlife. The road was mostly packed dirt, potholed and under construction, with only a few paved stretches. It wasn’t the worst we’ve been on, but it was bumpy all the way.
Still, the wildlife was already putting on a show. Mason spotted our first capybaras—two standing in the grass next to a stream—and even a caiman beside them. I was amazed he could see them from a moving vehicle.
Learn more about our time in the Pampas and Madidi Jungle, including sunset boat rides, pink dolphins, and more unexpected wildlife encounters:
Rafting to Madidi Jungle
After our pampas experience, we overnighted in Rurrenabaque before heading upriver into Madidi National Park. We thought the rough parts of our journey were over, but Bolivia wasn’t done with us yet! The boat ride upriver became another wild adventure, with chilly weather, strong currents, and a few heart-racing moments.
What we expected to be a peaceful 4.5 hours up the Beni and Tuichi Rivers turned out to be anything but. Though it was sunny, a cold snap meant the ride was frigid—we bundled in sweaters, coats, and blankets as the boat cut slowly through strong currents.
Once we arrived at the Tuichi River, things got interesting. Being the dry season, the water levels were low. The crew gunned the engine in the shallow spots and drove full speed, hoping to skim over the rocks. Sometimes it worked, other times, we rammed the riverbed and the boat tilted sharply. I doubt we were ever in real danger of capsizing—our crew seemed completely unfazed—but tilting on a boat is one of my least favourite sensations.
Each time, our captain, guide, and spotter jumped out to lift and push the boat over the rocks. At one point, Derek had to help, too. That time, the grounding took 20 minutes to clear, leaving the boat with four small holes. From then on, the crew periodically bailed water with buckets.
Madidi tested our nerves —but it was worth every chilly, bumpy, wild moment. Looking back, it’s one of those adventures we’ll be talking about for years.
Travel Tips for the Amazon
• Flights are limited: Flights to Rurrenabaque are infrequent and prone to delays. Try to fly early in your trip to allow for rescheduling if needed.
• Don’t plan anything critical on travel days: With delays common, avoid booking tours or excursions on the same day as your flight.
• Road conditions can be rough: Expect long, bumpy drives—pack snacks, water, and motion sickness remedies.
• River journeys can be cold: Even in the Amazon, the weather can surprise you. Bring layers.
• Pack light: Boats to Madidi have limited space.
• Communication helps: A responsive tour operator (like Nick’s Adventures Bolivia) can make a huge difference if plans go sideways.
• Bring your sense of Adventure: A good attitude can make all the difference in stressful situations. Though we had our moments, we tried to remain calm and remind our kids that the unexpected is all part of the adventure!
Our journey to and from the Amazon was unpredictable, challenging, and completely unforgettable—one of those rare travel experiences where the adventure getting there was as memorable as the destination itself.
Read more about our Amazon Adventure – Exploring Bolivia’s Amazon: Pampas and Madidi National Park
Ready to Explore Bolivia?
Check out these related posts to help plan your trip:
• Bolivia with Kids: A 27-Day Itinerary
• Family Guide to La Paz: A Flexible 5-Day Itinerary
• Breathless in Bolivia: Managing Altitude Sickness as a Family
• Chasing Jaguars in Bolivia: A Family Safari in Jaguarland
• Visiting Toro Toro National Park: Know Before You Go
• Bolivia’s Uyuni Salt Flats with Kids: A Family Adventure
