After 17 days of camping across Namibia, we finally rolled into Etosha National Park—dusty, exhilarated, and more than ready for our first big-game safari with the kids. We’d dreamed of this for years: watching Jackson and Mason experience the wild up close. What we didn’t expect was how magical (and at times hilarious) the experience would be.
Looking for practical ways to prepare kids for safari? Check out our post, Safari with Kids: Tips from the Road
Etosha is one of the best places to view wildlife in Namibia, and if you stay inside the park at one of the main campgrounds, you can take advantage of the floodlit waterholes, which are thrilling after dark. We visited during the dry season when water was scarce, so the animals congregated near the waterholes throughout the day to cool off and drink. Dawn and dusk are prime times for game sightings, and we had some of our best encounters during these hours.
Covering over 22,000 square kilometres, it’s worth booking at least three nights to explore the different areas.
While there, we stayed at Okaukuejo, Halali, and Namutoni campsites. Each morning, we’d pack up and slowly drive to the next campsite, scanning the terrain for wildlife along the way.
Day 1: Rhinos & Rule Breaking
After setting up camp, we wandered over to the legendary Okaukuejo waterhole, unsure of what we might see.
Over the last two weeks, Derek and I had been preparing the boys for the safari, making sure they remembered two key things:
1) The animals are wild and roam freely—this isn’t a zoo. You may not see any animals on game drives or your favorite animal at all.
2) Stay quiet and calm—sudden movements and screams can frighten animals, causing them to either run away or run toward you.
To our complete shock and amazement, a lone black rhino was sipping water in the soft afternoon light. Derek and I were stunned. We never saw a rhino on our last safari. So thrilled, we immediately broke all the wildlife rules we’d just drilled into the boys.
Instead, we were whisper-yelling “Rhino! Rhino!” and frantically waving at the boys to come over. Cameras out and excitedly taking selfies… It was the exact opposite of calm. The boys teased us for the rest of the trip. We had officially lost all safari credibility.
First Game Drive: Lions in the Distance
Buzzing from our unexpected rhino encounter, we set out on our first game drive. Lions had been spotted earlier in the day, and sure enough, we found two male lions resting in the shade. They were far off the road and barely visible without binoculars or a zoom lens—but they counted!
Under the Floodlights: Night Comes Alive
As dusk settled over the park, we returned to the waterhole and were instantly rewarded. A large bull elephant stepped into the golden light, cooling off in the twilight—a first for the boys.
And then the real show began.
The stars were out and the floodlights came on, creating a spotlight on the stage. From one direction, a lioness and her cub crept forward. From the opposite side, six giraffes advanced cautiously, standing guard around a young calf. The tension was palpable. Just as the lioness began to drink, we heard the crunch of rocks—a rhino was approaching. Then a second.
The lioness quickly backed away, unnerved by the larger animals, while the giraffes inched closer, still maintaining a protective circle around their smallest member. Watching the silent standoff between predator, prey, and giant herbivores was fascinating. We were completely mesmerized.
Jackson and Mason didn’t say a word for hours—just wide eyes and quiet wonder. Watching them experience these animals for the first time, through the same lens we had years ago, filled our hearts. This was the moment we came for. To share our love of animals and adventure with them.
Day 2: Horns & Hyenas
Before the sun had even peeked over the horizon, Mason poked me awake, already dressed and ready to go. Jackson wasn’t far behind. The four of us made our way to the waterhole in the soft darkness of early morning.
And again—we were rewarded. A mother black rhino and her calf appeared, grazing quietly and sipping water, their sweet faces reflected in the clear pool. Watching them together, it was impossible not to fall in love. Rhinos may just be my favourite.
Scenic Drive to Halali
After breakfast, we packed up and began the short drive to Halali Camp, using the opportunity as another game drive. The main roads between camps are well-maintained and easy to navigate despite the occasional roadblock!
Being an extensive park, animals in Etosha are often far in the distance. However, there are some smaller trails that detour off the main roads, allowing for closer encounters.
Frog-Fishing Hyenas at Halali
That evening, we headed to the Halali waterhole and saw four spotted hyenas with their limp-like walk and hunched shoulders, stalking toward the pond. We watched, puzzled at first, as the scavengers darted their heads into the water… only to realize they were fishing for frogs! Who knew?
Day 3: From Storms to Silence
We woke to what Jackson called a “storm of small birds” at the waterhole. A black cloud of feathered bodies surged from tree to water and back again, creating an illusion of color-shifting camouflage. As they perched in unison, the once green leaves turned to a dusty brown, giving the appearance of decay. Hawks circled overhead, diving with precision toward unsuspecting victims who couldn’t keep up.
Our final game drive gave us sightings of springbok, kudu, zebra, and wildebeest, but the highlight came at a quiet pond. Two elephants, standing knee-deep, drank and cooled themselves under the mid-morning sun. Watching them use their trunks with such dexterity—plucking leaves, slurping water, and then spraying it across their backs like a garden hose—was endlessly entertaining.
Our presence seemed to unsettle the larger bull, and he retreated from the pond, but not before he stopped and stared us down as he passed. We held our breath, unsure of his intentions. After a long silence, he turned and crossed the road, leaving us in stunned silence.
Mongoose Mayhem
We arrived at Namutoni Camp and were greeted by a curious, scurrying gang of banded mongooses. Dozens of them zipped under the truck and darted around the campsite, digging for bugs and generally causing an amusing ruckus. They didn’t come too close and scattered with a loud clap—but it was an unexpectedly warm welcome.
Unfortunately, the Namutoni waterhole was underwhelming. The pond was set so far back from the viewing area that even with binoculars, it was hard to make out which animals were there. A bit of a letdown after our previous nights.
More Than Just Wildlife: Etosha’s Lasting Gift
Etosha surprised us. It challenged us to be patient, to pay attention, and to appreciate the quieter moments—not just the iconic big cat sightings.
The floodlit waterholes alone make this park unique, offering incredible views of wildlife behavior you wouldn’t otherwise see. Compared to the vast terrain, where animals often appeared as distant silhouettes, the waterholes gave us close, intimate encounters—perfect for families with kids.
What made it truly special, though, was watching our boys connect with the wild. Their quiet wonder, their laughter, their questions—it reminded us why we travel in the first place. Etosha gave us more than we’d hoped. And we left with full hearts and a whole new set of wild stories to tell.
Ready to Start Planning Your Safari Adventure?
Check out these related posts to help plan your trip:
- 51-Day Africa Safari – Part 1: South Africa & Namibia’s Coast
- 51-Day Africa Safari – Part 2: Namibia’s Etosha & Caprivi Strip
- 51-Day Africa Safari – Part 3: Victoria Falls & Botswana
- Our Best and Worst Day on Safari
- Camping Safari in Africa: Know Before You Go
- Camping Across Southern Africa: A Rundown of our Safari Campsites
- Navigating Border Crossings in Southern Africa
- Safari with Kids: Tips from the Road
- Etosha NP with Kids: A Family Safari to Remember
- Exploring the Caprivi Strip with Kids
- Okonjima Family Safari: Where the Wild Things Wait
- The Smoke that Thunders: A Trip to Victoria Falls
- Into the Wild: Chobe NP with Kids
- Sunset Cruise on the Chobe River: A Photo Journey
- Living Giants: A Photo Journey Through Nxai Pan National Park
